Machupicchu! Incredible, amazing, breathtaking; honestly no words can describe it.
Last Wednesday, I made a last minute decision to pack and leave the hostel. Dont get me wrong, I loved it there, I loved my job and I had a family there but I knew it was time for me to move on. So I packed my stuff, said my goodbyes, shed some tears and headed to the bus station with a few friends that had come to visit me in Arequipa. We parted ways at the bis station as they were going to the beach and I ws hea 3 or ading to Cusco, but we had plans to meet in Lima on Sunday.
The bus arrived in Cusco at 7:15am - an hour late, however an hour late in Peru is good timing. To be honest though, I don't mind long bus rides...it's one of the times I can just be with my thoughts and organize myself, think about things and clear my head. I made a decision to leave so quickly I really needed to just take a breather, on my own with no one around and as soon as I got on the bus I knew a couple days traveling solo was what I needed. My brain gets cluttered which results in me getting stressed and frustrated; then I lose focus and I needed to get my focus back and see where I was going.
When we arrived at the bus terminal, two guys (Tim and Alex) that had been staying at Wild Rover got off the bus - I didnt know they were on it - "Hey" I said happily. Traveling solo doesn't mean you don't like to see familiar faces. We grabbed a cab together to our hostels. I (of course) was staying at the Wild Rover and the guys were staying at one just up the street. The taxi driver charged us more money because we were going to two separate places but then only dropped us off at the corner in between the hostels...GRINGOED AGAIN!!! Oh well, it was to early in the morning and I was tired - I didnt sleep well on the bus - for me to care, you learn to laugh it off after awhile.
I checked in to my room and went and met the guys at their hostel for breakfast and then went back to grab a Granny nap.
Before I went up to my room, I went to the travel agency at the hostel to ask about a day trip to Machupicchu ...$275!!! ESTAS LOCO?!? Way too expensive! Great! I didnt have the time to do a 3 or 4 day trek as I was meeting my mates in Lima on Sunday and didnt want to blow them off. Now what? Sleep, sleep was the only thing I could think off, I was too exhausted to think straight; so I headed upstairs to my dorm.
"Good morning!" was the greeting I got as soon as I walked into the dorm. This is how I met Kiwi and Frenchy. Kiwi used to work at Loki (the other known hostel chain in Cuzco and the same chain I worked for in Mancora) but now has nestled into Wild Rover comfortably. They usually don't check guests into his room but when he found out who I was he understood and was cool with it.
We started chatting about Machupicchu. He told me there was an agency that sold the trip for $100 USD. It was two days one night...bus there, walk the train tracks, tour, tour guide, entry to the park, three meals, one night stay and return bus. Perfect!!! The only thing was, we would get backk Saturday night, I had to be in Lima for Sunday and the bus from Cuzco to Lima was 20 hours. "Why don't you fly to Lima from here...flights are really cheap, and you can take a morning flight." Genius! Now time for a 2 hour nap as Kiwi had invited me out to lunch with some of the crew from the Rover.
Man did I need the sleep; I was still groggy when I woke up but I felt better and ready for a day out in el Ciudad de Cuzco. We went for lunch (at this amazing vegan menu) and then decided to head up to Loki for a drink and see the bar manager Killian who I knew from Mancora. "Only for one drink guys, Im not in Cuzco to party, I'm here to see Machupicchu and then go to Lima!" Was basically my only fighting sentence. "Emmie, you have no idea" replied Kiwi. "Right, I have worked at a Rover for 5 months and I worked at Loki Mancora, I think I know." My second attempt at a fight. Man...I really didnt know. First of all, the managers kept buying us shots and then any drink we bought was on their tab, by the time we left I was pretty day tipsy. I then booked my trip to Machupicchu - next morning at 8 -and we continued on with our festivities....champagne on the streets. Yup, champagne was purchased with glasses and we wandered the streets of Cuzco mildly intoxicated enjoying some bubbly. People were waving at me from combies as I stood there with the bottle in my hand I cheersed them. We took pictures, laughed, annoyed people and even took a fountain picture. You know how cities have a fountain in the centre...ya well so does Cuzco, except it doesnt work...who cares...we have champagne.
"Emmie! Wake up! Your bus is here!" Bus what fuc... oh shit! I am going to Machupicchu today! Shit! I (still drunk) get out of bed, throw a toothbrush, toothpaste, and two sweaters in my day pack and run out to the bus. What happened last night? The guys weren't even in their beds! I even considered skipping the trip, but mentally smacked myself and got on the bus or should I say some guys mini van. It just shows you how drunk I still was, I would never get in someones car but at this point I didnt care, my head was to fuzzy to think straight. Oh great, my camera is not even charged. Perfect Emmie, just perfect...now I have to go to Machupicchu and not take pictures. "Does this work?" I look at the chord the driver is showing me....perfect. He stops to pick some other people up. They gave me some water as I was dying of thirst. We stop again. Someone opens my door and asks if I am Emmie and then asks me to go with them... I said goodbye to my new friends with water and was directed to a bus.
I dont know how it happened but all of a sudden I was as sober as a newborn baby and had absolutely no hangover. I dont know when it happened but I was just sitting on the bus with my ipod in with a smile on my face...I felt so happy...and I was so excited to be going to Machupicchu. I was so happy just to be doing something and doing the travel thing instead of just being in one spot.
The bus ride was scary. Its all through windy roads through the mountains, there were parts in the road that literally had waterfalls going over it. The driver was speeding around hairpin turns that were making my knuckles and everyone elses knuckles white. "Dispacio por favor." I would yell from the back. It made me think of the day Brady, John and I rented the jeep in Banos and we drove along the road made for a bike. I reminded myself I jumped out of plane, but when my vertigo kicks in it's almost impossible for me to talk myself out of it.
I was the only gringa on the bus...everyone was Latin and barely spoke English, but I ended up befriending 4 Chileans - who became my Chilito's - and I ended up spending my time and my walk with them...and yes I spoke Spanish...por supuesto mal espagnol pero espagnol. Actually, one of them wanted to practice his English so he spoke English and me Spanish. Thats how our whole day went, even along the train tracks.
After six hours of a heart pumping drive we had to walk about 8km along train tracks to get to the town Aguas Calientes. I met with my guide and then went off with the Chilitos. Before we even started walking it began to rain. Of course getting side tracked the day before my rain coat was something that I didnt pack...its alright....I'm not a bruja (witch) I wont melt.
The walk was awesome, it was so beautiful. We were surrounded by rounded peaked mountains covered in jungle, a river that was with us the whole time and Machupicchu our destination. I was wet and a little wobbly walking the tracks that were over the water but I was happy and having a great time. I had new friends and was practicing my Spanish which is a bonus.
We heard a loud horn behind us and knew a train was coming. As it ran past us we waved at the passengers and they looked out at us, some waving some probably thinking we were idiots for walking in the rain and then "bam!" Something hit me in the head. I was a little confused...what the hell was that? Water! Can you believe I got water bombed from the train...Seriously! As if I wasn't already wet enough, ughh.
It took us almost three hours to get to Aguas Calientes and by that point I was soaked, cold and exhausted. I said goodbye to the Chilitos and went and met up with my guide.
He took me up in the square to meet with the rest of the group and then told me to go with him. He starts walking me down an alley...really, now? this is where it is going to happen? Then he asked for my passport, I looked at him "I need it to go get your ticket for Machupicchu I will return it to you after dinner which is here." He points to the restaurant in front of us. "Be here for 7:30. The women will show you to your room."
It wasn't really a hostel, but there were 4 beds that werent bunk beds. There was a young guy and an older woman. "Hablas Ingles?" "Si" he answered. He had no English. There was however a chord in there that fit my camera....perfect!!! I charged it.
At dinner I was (again) the only Gringa. No one spoke, or attmepted to speak English with me. I saw a girl who had stayed at the Rover in Arequipa, we said hi and that was it. I was also really distracted as I was worried about my passport, I dont like giving it to people, but I kept telling myself that this was the same tour Kiwi and Frenchy had done so it was legit...I hoped.
One of the guides comes in to explain to us what is going on the next day....IN SPANISH!!! Nothing was in English...but you know what...I understood 90% of what he said. I couldn't believe it...I was so impressed with myself, I only had a few questions when he was finished but other then three questions I understood everything. HIGH FIVE MYSELF :) .
It was an early night, we had to be up at 4am as me and one of my roommates decided to walk...again all discussed in Spanish. I love speaking Spanish, but after a full day of speaking and listening nothing but Spanish is very exhausting, I have to think a lot when speaking and it takes me awhile to translate so my brain was pooped.
My feet were like prunes as my shoes and socks were soaked along with everything else I was wearing. I hung my stuff up to dry but I knew it was a lost cause when I saw the water drip from my cardigan to the floor.
We were up at 4 - there is nothing like putting on wet clothes first thing in the morning - packed our stuff, went for breakfast - bread rolls, jam, butter and tea - and then headed off in the pitch black. Why I walked...I always ask myself, I had planned on taking the bus but I wanted to have a buddy and walking offered me that, though he didnt speak clearly and mumbled which made it impossible for me to understand his Spanish so it was easier not to talk. I also don't know why I thought the walk was going to be flat (like the train tracks) considering Machu Picchu is on top of a mountain. We climbed so many stairs. By 5:45 everyone started stripping off layers and changing right on the road because we were just covered in sweat. I was just stripping off layers of wet clothes as in my state the morning before I only packed two sweaters and nothing more so all my clothes were still wet from the day before...I felt so gross...Machupicchu, you better be worth it. I didn't know what to expect, I had heard so much about it, how incredible it was I had such expectations from the reviews from others and sometimes expectations can ruin things for you...I was hoping Machupicchu was not going to be disappointing.
It wasn't...
I was late to meet up with the group as I walked and everyone in my tour group took the bus -including Tim and Alex who were in my group. "Wow Em, you walked...thats awesome." Tell my feet that.
I couldn't believe that I was in Machu Picchu...a place that you only see a picture of in a National Geographic and a name you hear whispered in the wind while traveling Latin America...never a place you think that one day you will be standing in. My blistered feet and sweat running down my face didnt even phase me at this point because I was standing in Machu Picchu. I couldnt stop looking around and taking pictures. I even saw people that I knew...I know right...who goes to Machu Picchu and runs into about 10 people they know...I do. Some from Arequipa, my chilitos, the nice couple that gave me water. There would be a wave or " Hey Canada!". Crazy.
The guide took us through the city telling us about the quarry, the different buildings and the people that lived there....
They were people of wealth and no more than 400 people lived there. The city took about 50 years to build and is said not to have been fully built as some of the buildings were left unfinished. They were being invaded by the Spanish so they picked up and left for the forest.
When the city was discovered by Hirham Bingham in 1911, it was completely overgrown with forest. He took photos and took them back to America to get investors so he could uncover this wonder.
The actual name of the city is not known....Machu Picchu is really just how it was referred to because one of the 4 mountains that circles it is called Machu Picchu - Machu meaning old and Picchu meaning peak.
There must've been a thousand people there and they barely took up a third of the city, to think that huge place only had 400 inhabitants is crazy. Looking at it from above really gave you a perfect view of how big it really is.
I could've sat there all day...staring....staring at this incredible hidden city on a mountain. I just sat there...not saying a word...infact...I split off from everyone else and was enjoying my alone time with this wonder. Oh ya...it was Valentines Day...and probably the best I've ever had.
I really didnt want to leave, I even scoped out the place to see where I could pitch a (non-existant) tent and move myself there permanently. Seriously! I could've stay forever...there was just something that was holding me there, unable to move and speechless and I wanted to hold onto it forever. Like all places I have seen/been too I was trying to picture what it was like back then, when they walked through it. What their lives were like, who they were, what it looked like with them milling through the gardens and pathways...wishing I could travel back in time and experience it like them...but I can't travel back in time (yet) and wanted to take it all in, as much as I could, for as long as I could and unfortunately my time was running out.
As I was about to leave, I saw two girls from my tour group who were planning on walking back within the hour...so I decided to walk back with them which gave me a bit more time to take in the City in the Clouds one last time.
The walk back was a lot drier then the one on the way there, the sun was shining bright and hot, though my feet were unhappier on this walk. They were so blistered, they were screaming at me to stop and rest but I kept on going. At one point I here "umm, I need a tampon, does anyone have a tampon?" Tampon I thought. I turn around and one of my walking buddies had a nose bleed. Thank god we carry roles of toilet paper, they always come in handy. I started laughing "a tampon, really? Oh my god, how funny would that be, walking around with a tampon up your nose." "Thats all I could think of at the moment."
We finally made it (in one piece) to where the buses where picking us up and where I ran into about 4 more people that I knew. "Wow, you sure do know a lot of people."
I tried to sleep as much as possible on the bus ride back but the driver was insane. He was passing the other drivers on these windy mountain roads, I thought we were going to fly over the edge, I was white knuckled most of the ride. When I finally did fall asleep, I was woken up - or I should say everyone was woken up - by a loud bang and a dog squealing. Our driver hit a dog, he was so intent on speed that he wasnt paying attention, and at this point it had started to rain. We arrived safely in Cusco, I might have missed a couple hundred heart beats but I was alive.
It was a bit of a mission for me to get to bed that night...Kiwi and Frenchy were trying to get my wasted. They even made me dress up for the theme party...traffic light party. Red - not a chance, green-easy like a Sunday morning and Yellow - get me drunk first. I was eating my dinner at the bar when Kiwi comes over and slips something over my head, I look down, "Gee, green, easy like a Sunday morning, thanks mate." Then of course green paint came out and all over me, my hair, my feet, hands and leggings that I was planning on wearing on the plane. Oh well, it was a Wild Rover, I should know how it works by now.
I was up super early the next morning, packed woke the boys up to say goodbye and hopped on my flight to Lima. Lucky for my, one of the managers from Loki was on the same flight and drove me to my hostel when we landed... lucky me :).
I only had 7 hours until my next flight. The original plan was to have one last crazy night and catch a flight the next night but I had only booked my flight that morning and the one leaving the same day was a better flight with a better layover.
It was really nice meeting up with Sixtine, Charlie and Siggy for my last night in Peru. We went for a nice lunch and then went back to the hostel for some drinks and then went and chilled out in a park. I couldnt really get to crazy because I had to catch a flight, but I had a nice buzz going and had a really nice time.
I said my goodbyes and then hopped in a cab where I had my last Spanish conversation for awhile.
I shed some tears on the plane, this last minute decision was unexpected for me and wasn't sure if I was 100% ready, but knew that it's exactly what I needed to be doing.
I thought back on the last 16 months of my life, BC, Europe, living in Italy, backpacking Europe, Holland, crazy nights in Germany, getting lost in Prague an incredible weekend in Barcelona, moving to Peru, 10 months in South America which was by far some of the best times of my life with some of the most incredible people I have ever met traveling. I have done so much this trip and letting go for awhile is hard but knowing I am not finished - just taking a rest - makes me smile not just on my face but on my heart.
Gracias todos para todo. Hay no palabras que pueden explicar lo mucho que significas para mi todo. America del Sur fue mas alla de lo que nunca imagine y es todo gracias a ti. Son todo en mi corazon. Hasta proximo tiempo.
-Mi Hermosa Vida-
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