Machu Picchu - The City in the Clouds

Machupicchu!  Incredible, amazing, breathtaking; honestly no words can describe it.

Last Wednesday, I made a last minute decision to pack and leave the hostel. Dont get me wrong, I loved it there, I loved my job and I had a family there but I knew it was time for me to move on.  So I packed my stuff, said my goodbyes, shed some tears and headed to the bus station with a few friends that had come to visit me in Arequipa.  We parted ways at the bis station as they were going to the beach and I ws hea 3 or ading to Cusco, but we had plans to meet in Lima on Sunday.

The bus arrived in Cusco at 7:15am - an hour late, however an hour late in Peru is good timing.  To be honest though, I don't mind long bus rides...it's one of the times I can just be with my thoughts and organize myself, think about things and clear my head.  I made a decision to leave so quickly I really needed to just take a breather, on my own with no one around and as soon as I got on the bus I knew a couple days traveling solo was what I needed.   My brain gets cluttered which results in me getting stressed and frustrated; then I lose focus and I needed to get my focus back and see where I was going.

When we arrived at the bus terminal, two guys (Tim and Alex)  that had been staying at Wild Rover got off the bus -  I didnt know they were on it -  "Hey"  I said happily.   Traveling solo doesn't mean you don't like to see familiar faces.  We grabbed a cab together to our hostels.   I (of course) was staying at the Wild Rover and the guys were staying at one just up the street.  The taxi driver charged us more money because we were going to two separate places but then only dropped us off at the corner in between the hostels...GRINGOED AGAIN!!! Oh well, it was to early in the morning and I was tired - I didnt sleep well on the bus - for me to care, you learn to laugh it off after awhile.

I checked in to my room and went and met the guys at their hostel for breakfast and then went back to grab a Granny nap.

Before I went up to my room,  I went to the travel agency at the hostel to ask about a day trip to Machupicchu ...$275!!!  ESTAS LOCO?!?  Way too expensive!  Great!   I didnt have the time to do a 3 or 4 day trek as I was meeting my mates in Lima on Sunday and didnt want to blow them off.   Now what?   Sleep, sleep was the only thing I could think off, I was too exhausted to think straight; so I headed upstairs to my dorm.

"Good morning!"  was the greeting I got as soon as I walked into the dorm.   This is how I met Kiwi and Frenchy.   Kiwi used to work at Loki (the other known hostel chain in Cuzco and the same chain I worked for in Mancora)  but now has nestled into Wild Rover comfortably.   They usually don't check guests into his room but when he found out who I was he understood and was cool with it.

We started chatting about Machupicchu.  He told me there was an agency that sold the trip for $100 USD.  It was two days one night...bus there, walk the train tracks, tour, tour guide, entry to the park, three meals, one night stay and return bus.  Perfect!!! The only thing was,  we would get backk Saturday night, I had to be in Lima for Sunday and the bus from Cuzco to Lima was 20 hours.  "Why don't you fly to Lima from here...flights are really cheap, and you can take a morning flight."  Genius!  Now time for a 2 hour nap as Kiwi had invited me out to lunch with some of the crew from the Rover.

Man did I need the sleep;  I was still groggy when I woke up but I felt better and ready for a day out in el Ciudad de Cuzco.   We went for lunch (at this amazing vegan menu) and then decided to head up to Loki for a drink and see the bar manager Killian who I knew from Mancora.  "Only for one drink guys, Im not in Cuzco to party,  I'm here to see Machupicchu and then go to Lima!"  Was basically my only fighting sentence.  "Emmie, you have no idea"  replied Kiwi.  "Right,  I have worked at a Rover for 5 months and I worked at Loki Mancora,  I think I know."  My second attempt at a fight.  Man...I really didnt know.   First of all,  the managers kept buying us shots and then any drink we bought was on their tab, by the time we left I was pretty day tipsy.   I then booked my trip to Machupicchu - next morning at 8 -and we continued on with our festivities....champagne on the streets.  Yup,  champagne was purchased with glasses and we wandered the streets of Cuzco mildly intoxicated enjoying some bubbly.  People were waving at me from combies as I stood there with the bottle in my hand I cheersed them.   We took pictures, laughed,  annoyed people and even took a fountain picture.  You know how cities have a fountain in the centre...ya well so does Cuzco, except it doesnt work...who cares...we have champagne.

 We went back and had drinks at the Rover and then went back to Loki where I helped out with the karaoke, and then went back to Rover.  I don't even remember going to bed.  So much for an easy night.

"Emmie!  Wake up!  Your bus is here!"  Bus what fuc... oh shit!  I am going to Machupicchu today!  Shit!  I (still drunk) get out of bed, throw a toothbrush, toothpaste, and two sweaters in my day pack and run out to the bus.   What happened last night?  The guys weren't even in their beds!  I even considered skipping the trip, but mentally smacked myself and got on the bus or should I say some guys mini van.   It just shows you how drunk I still was, I would never get in someones car but at this point I didnt care, my head was to fuzzy to think straight.  Oh great, my camera is not even charged. Perfect Emmie, just perfect...now I have to go to Machupicchu and not take pictures.   "Does this work?"  I look at the chord the driver is showing me....perfect.   He stops to pick some other people up.   They gave me some water as I was dying of thirst.  We stop again.  Someone opens my door and asks if I  am Emmie and then asks me to go with them... I said goodbye to my new friends with water and was directed to a bus.

I dont know how it happened but all of a sudden I was as sober as a newborn baby and had absolutely no hangover.  I dont know when it happened but I was just sitting on the bus with my ipod in with a smile on my face...I felt so happy...and I was so excited to be going to Machupicchu.  I was so happy just to be doing something and doing the travel thing instead of just being in one spot.

The bus ride was scary.  Its all through windy roads through the mountains, there were parts in the road that literally had waterfalls going over it.  The driver was speeding around hairpin turns that were making my knuckles and everyone elses knuckles white.   "Dispacio por favor."  I would yell from the back.  It made me think of the day Brady, John and I rented the jeep in Banos and we drove along the road made for a bike.  I reminded myself I jumped out of plane, but when my vertigo kicks in it's almost impossible for me to talk myself out of it.

I was the only gringa on the bus...everyone was Latin and barely spoke English, but I ended up befriending 4 Chileans - who became my Chilito's - and I ended up spending my time and my walk with them...and yes I spoke Spanish...por supuesto mal espagnol pero espagnol.   Actually, one of them wanted to practice his English so he spoke English and me Spanish.  Thats how our whole day went, even along the train tracks.

After six hours of a heart pumping drive we had to walk about 8km along train tracks to get to the town Aguas Calientes.   I met with my guide and then went off with the Chilitos.   Before we even started walking it began to rain.  Of course getting side tracked the day before my rain coat was something that I didnt pack...its alright....I'm not a bruja (witch) I wont melt.

The walk was awesome, it was so beautiful.  We were surrounded by rounded peaked mountains covered in jungle,  a river that was with us the whole time and Machupicchu our destination.   I was wet and a little wobbly walking the tracks that were over the water but I was happy and having a great time.  I had new friends and was practicing my Spanish which is a bonus.

We heard a loud horn behind us and knew a train was coming.  As it ran past us we waved at the passengers and they looked out at us, some waving some probably thinking we were idiots for walking in the rain and then "bam!"  Something hit me in the head.  I was a little confused...what the hell was that?  Water!  Can you believe I got water bombed from the train...Seriously!  As if I wasn't already wet enough, ughh.

It took us almost three hours to get to Aguas Calientes and by that point I was soaked, cold and exhausted.   I said goodbye to the Chilitos and went and met up with my guide.

He took me up in the square to meet with the rest of the group and then told me to go with him.  He starts walking me down an alley...really, now? this is where it is going to happen?  Then he asked for my passport, I looked at him "I need it to go get your ticket for Machupicchu I will return it to you after dinner which is here."  He points to the restaurant in front of us.  "Be here for 7:30.  The women will show you to your room."

It wasn't really a hostel, but there were 4 beds that werent bunk beds.  There was a young guy and an older woman.  "Hablas Ingles?"  "Si" he answered.  He had no English.  There was however a chord in there that fit my camera....perfect!!!  I charged it.

At dinner I was (again) the only Gringa.  No one spoke, or attmepted to speak English with me.   I saw a girl who had stayed at the Rover in Arequipa, we said hi and that was it.  I was also really distracted as I was worried about my passport,  I dont like giving it to people, but I kept telling myself that this was the same tour Kiwi and Frenchy had done so it was legit...I hoped.

One of the guides comes in to explain to us what is going on the next day....IN SPANISH!!!  Nothing was in English...but you know what...I understood 90% of what he said.  I couldn't believe it...I was so impressed with myself,  I only had a few questions when he was finished but other then three questions I understood everything.  HIGH FIVE MYSELF :) .

It was an early night, we had to be up at 4am as me and one of my roommates decided to walk...again all discussed in Spanish.   I love speaking Spanish, but after a full day of speaking and listening nothing but Spanish is very exhausting,  I have to think a lot when speaking and it takes me awhile to translate so my brain was pooped.

My feet were like prunes as my shoes and socks were soaked along with everything else I was wearing. I hung my stuff up to dry but I knew it was a lost cause when I saw the water drip from my cardigan to the floor.

We were up at 4 - there is nothing like putting on wet clothes first thing in the morning -  packed our stuff, went for breakfast - bread rolls, jam, butter and tea - and then headed off in the pitch black.  Why I walked...I always ask myself, I had planned on taking the bus but I wanted to have a buddy and walking offered me that, though he didnt speak clearly and mumbled which made it impossible for me to understand his Spanish so it was easier not to talk.   I also don't know why I thought the walk was going to be flat (like the train tracks) considering Machu Picchu is on top of a mountain.  We climbed so many stairs.  By 5:45 everyone started stripping off layers and changing right on the road because we were just covered in sweat.  I was just stripping off layers of wet clothes as in my state the morning before I only packed two sweaters and nothing more so all my clothes were still wet from the day before...I felt so gross...Machupicchu, you better be worth it.  I didn't know what to expect,  I had heard so much about it, how incredible it was I had such expectations from the reviews from others and sometimes expectations can ruin things for you...I was hoping Machupicchu was not going to be disappointing.

It wasn't...

I was late to meet up with the group as I walked and everyone in my tour group took the bus -including Tim and Alex who were in my group.  "Wow Em, you walked...thats awesome."  Tell my feet that.

I couldn't believe that I was in Machu Picchu...a place that you only see a picture of in a National Geographic and a name you hear whispered in the wind while traveling Latin America...never a place you think that one day you will be standing in.  My blistered feet and sweat running down my face didnt even phase me at this point because I was standing in Machu Picchu.  I couldnt stop looking around and taking pictures.   I even saw people that I knew...I know right...who goes to Machu Picchu and runs into about 10 people they know...I do.   Some from Arequipa,  my chilitos,   the nice couple that gave me water.   There would be a wave or " Hey Canada!". Crazy.

The guide took us through the city telling us about the quarry, the different buildings and the people that lived there....

  They were people of wealth and no more than 400 people lived there.   The city took about 50 years to build and is said not to have been fully built as some of the buildings were left unfinished.  They were being invaded by the Spanish so they picked up and left for the forest.   

When the city was discovered by Hirham Bingham in 1911, it was completely overgrown with forest.  He took photos and took them back to America to get investors so he could uncover this wonder.   

The actual name of the city is not known....Machu Picchu is really just how it was referred to because one of the 4 mountains that circles it is called Machu Picchu  - Machu meaning old and Picchu meaning peak.

There must've been a thousand people there and they barely took up a third of the city,  to think that huge place only had 400 inhabitants is crazy.  Looking at it from above really gave you a perfect view of how big it really is.

I could've sat there all day...staring....staring at this incredible hidden city on a mountain.  I just sat there...not saying a word...infact...I split off from everyone else and was enjoying my alone time with this wonder.  Oh ya...it was Valentines Day...and probably the best I've ever had.

I really didnt want to leave,  I even scoped out the place to see where I could pitch a (non-existant) tent and move myself there permanently.  Seriously!  I could've stay forever...there was just something that was holding me there, unable to move and speechless and I wanted to hold onto it forever.   Like all places I have seen/been too I was trying to picture what it was like back then,  when they walked through it.  What their lives were like, who they were,  what it looked like with them milling through the gardens and pathways...wishing I could travel back in time and experience it like them...but I can't travel back in time (yet) and wanted to take it all in, as much as I could, for as long as I could and unfortunately my time was running out.

As I was about to leave, I saw two girls from my tour group who were planning on walking back within the hour...so I decided to walk back with them which gave me a bit more time to take in the City in the Clouds one last time.

The walk back was a lot drier then the one on the way there,  the sun was shining bright and hot, though my feet were unhappier on this walk.  They were so blistered, they were screaming at me to stop and rest but I kept on going.   At one point I here "umm, I need a tampon, does anyone have a tampon?"  Tampon I thought.  I turn around and one of my walking buddies had a nose bleed.  Thank god we carry roles of toilet paper, they always come in handy.  I started laughing "a tampon, really?  Oh my god, how funny would that be, walking around with a tampon up your nose."  "Thats all I could think of at the moment."

 We finally made it (in one piece) to where the buses where picking us up and where I ran into about 4 more people that I knew.  "Wow, you sure do know a lot of people."

I tried to sleep as much as possible on the bus ride back but the driver was insane.  He was passing the other drivers on these windy mountain roads,  I thought we were going to fly over the edge,  I was white knuckled most of the ride.  When I finally did fall asleep, I was woken up - or I should say everyone was woken up - by a loud bang and a dog squealing.   Our driver hit a dog,  he was so intent on speed that he wasnt paying attention, and at this point it had started to rain.  We arrived safely in Cusco,  I might have missed a couple hundred heart beats but I was alive.

It was a bit of a mission for me to get to bed that night...Kiwi and Frenchy were trying to get my wasted.  They even made me dress up for the theme party...traffic light party.  Red - not a chance, green-easy like a Sunday morning and Yellow - get me drunk first.  I was eating my dinner at the bar when Kiwi comes over and slips something over my head, I look down,  "Gee, green, easy like a Sunday morning, thanks mate."  Then of course green paint came out and all over me, my hair, my feet, hands and leggings that I was planning on wearing on the plane.  Oh well, it was a Wild Rover,  I should know how it works by now.

I was up super early the next morning, packed woke the boys up to say goodbye and hopped on my flight to Lima.   Lucky for my, one of the managers from Loki was on the same flight and drove me to my hostel when we landed... lucky me :).

I only had 7 hours until my next flight. The original plan was to have one last crazy night and catch a flight the next night but I had only booked my flight that morning and the one leaving the same day was a better flight with a better layover.

It was really nice meeting up with Sixtine, Charlie and Siggy for my last night in Peru.  We went for a nice lunch and then went back to the hostel for some drinks and then went and chilled out in a park.  I couldnt really get to crazy because I had to catch a flight, but I had a nice buzz going and had a really nice time.

I said my goodbyes and then hopped in a cab where I had my last Spanish conversation for awhile.

I shed some tears on the plane,  this last minute decision was unexpected for me and wasn't sure if I was 100% ready, but knew that it's exactly what I needed to be doing.

I thought back on the last 16 months of my life,  BC, Europe, living in Italy,  backpacking Europe, Holland, crazy nights in Germany, getting lost in Prague an incredible weekend in Barcelona, moving to Peru, 10 months in South America which was by far some of the best times of my life with some of the most incredible people I have ever met traveling.   I have done so much this trip and letting go for awhile is hard but knowing I am not finished - just taking a rest - makes me smile not just on my face but on my heart.

Gracias todos para todo.  Hay no palabras que pueden explicar lo mucho que significas para mi todo.  America del Sur fue mas alla de lo que nunca imagine y es todo gracias a ti.   Son todo en mi corazon.  Hasta proximo tiempo.


                                                                                                             -Mi Hermosa Vida-

When the Lights Go Out

I know, its been quite awhile since I have posted anything...but you know I dont like to post unless I have something with enough substance to write about and honestly, nothing has really happened in the past while.

I work a lot, its´still fun but I do get sick of people sometimes, and with not drinking as much the humor of drunkeness looses it´s humor after many nights sober.

My classes finished as it´s summer holidays and most people go to the beach so other than the hostel I don´t have a (paying) job at the moment.

The charity is going well...we have raised enough money for the girls to have bathing suits for the summer and I have been a few times to hang out, play cards and read them stories.

To be honest I have gotten kind of stuck inside the hostel...I dont leave much.  I have been reading a lot and have been really tired as its rainy season.

Like I said...not really anything interesting to write about...in fact, it just shows that my life isn´t always as adventurous as you make think.

However, with my life being pretty...normal...at the moment, one of the most laid-back chilled out things was probably one of the best I have had in awhile.

Last Tuesday we had a power outage - very common - at around 7:30 pm.   ¨Great, this means the bar closes.¨

We lit candles and put them in empty beer bottles which gave the bar a nice relaxed atmosphere, but a bar just isnt the same without music.

Lucky for us we had some musically inclined guests.   With a tamborine, table tops, stools, our condiment buckets and metal napkin holders the Brazilians played and sang for almost 4 hours non-stop.  It was awesome.  People were happy, clapping, cheering and for once talking as they couldnt use their phones.  They saved the night.  It just goes to show that really, we can survive - if only for a little bit - without todays technology and actually socialize.


I took a video, you can´t see much but neither could we, it´s more about the music.  Hope you enjoy.

                                                                                                     






                                                                                                                - My Beautiful Life -

For the Children

With being events manager I get to plan a lot of fun things and one of them was this years Christmas Charity.  I was super stoked to set it up as I had the perfect one.

Casa Hogar, is an orphanage for girls between the ages of 3 and 18.  They need everything from clothing, toys and school supplies.  We set up a box - decorated Christmas style - in the reception where everyone could leave their donations.

Two days before Christmas Sam, Kiki and Chantal - my two friend that are working here - and I took the donations to Casa Hogar.

It is  45 minute combie ride from the hostel.  A combie is the local transportation here.  Small cramped buses - some the size of a mini van some oversized tool vans - with no air conditioning, sometimes the windows dont open and you are lucky if you can get a seat.  Sometimes it is so packed thatyour feet barely touch the ground and their are too many hands holding on to the rails so you hope the shoulder to shoulder I timacy of strangers will keep you verticle. Other times you have to stand down on the step and hang out the door.

We were luckyd the combie wasnt full when we got on considering it was a smaller one and the roof barley reaches 5' 3" high - Im tall here.  However the more people that got on the more cramped it got, and the more cramped .it got the hotter it got, and the hotter it got the more my pores opened and I began to profusely sweat ....there were no windows.  I had slept in so didnt have time to shower before we left so I still had remnants of spilled beer and alcohol on me with a lingering musk of cigarette smoke, and I just kept sweating.  My feet were bei g stepped on, I had butts in my face, crotches and more people just kept getting on.  I felt so vyle, so I just put my head against the window - which wasnt even at a goodenough temperature to cool my face down - and counted down the minutes.  Honestly though it was so worth it, besides things like combies are a cultural experience so I take them in with a smile.

The girls are incredible.  They literally attached themselves to us immediately.  They didnt seem to care why we were there, they were just happy that we were there and they took advantage of our presence till the moment we left.

The design workof Casa Hogar is like a castle.  The  girls are told they are princes in a tower.  Their rooms are huge with lots of windows that let in the sunshine and fresh air and a view bei g the back drop of Chacchani and Misti.

Sam speaks no Spanish so I had to translate- no one their speaks English. It makes me smile that I have the ability to do that now plus I do t practice my  Spanish a lot because there is so much English here so I was more than happy to use my bad Spanish skills.  When I had trouble I popped out my mini dictionary which always helps plus Chantal was the only other one out of the four of us who has Spanish so between the both of us we got on fine.

Kiki looked at me with a look of sadness "they are so happy."  "Of course they are.  Here they are loved, are well taken care of and have eachother."  Sometimes I feel thats all we need.  Get rid of all our luxuries which we have come to feel are necessities and give us the basics in life...food, shelter, love and eachother.  I said the same thing when I volunteered at Casa Chapi....these kids just love you forno reason, its just because you are there and it makes you see that you dont need much to have happiness.

The girls were really touched when we left, a little emotional iternally.

We got on the (empty) combie and talked about our experience.  This experience made us realize we dont just want this to be a Christmas Charity "I think we should redecorate the box and have it as an on going charity," said Chantal.  "I agree." Said Kiki.
"Wow, im stoked you girls want to keep this going. Maybe ai can set it upso we can take the donations over every week."

Casa Hogar is our new charity.  The hostel manager said absolutely and we just have to make sure we can go every week.  I am so excited!  I really hope to get the girls what they need and to keep seeing those beautful smiles on their faces.

If you would like to donate please leave a comment or send me an email.

What you receive in return when giving is better than any gift you could ever get.


                                                                         -My Beautiful Life -

The Fun Police

¨I hate you!¨ ¨This place is great, but you are evil!¨ ¨I really don´t want to speak to you today.¨ Sometimes it´s death stares or a middle finger.   These are all things I see and hear regularly from the guests at the hostel.  Why?  Well because they are always extremely hungover with an expensive tab.  Why is this my fault?  Well, I am events manager also known as, the Fun Police.  I am their favourite person during the parties and the most hated the next day when they are feeling lingering intoxication and the after affects of jagerbombs, happy hours and free shots.

Honestly!!!  It´s fantasitc!!!   I am in charge of promotions and making the parties/events happen.   They are the same events we have always had I just make sure they happen and that the guests are having fun.   I go from room to room with free shots, getting people to sign up for the nights fiestas or the next days outing.

It´s a lot of fun but extremely exhausting.   Happy, sad, sick, hungover I always have to have a smile on my face and be with guests.  They know my name and I know theirs...I know when they are doing a trek,  I know if they are sick and make sure they are feeling okay, I make sure to constantly be communating with them whether it´s to let them know whats going on or making them drink free shots while getting them dressed up in our theme of the night.  I don´t take no for an answer when it comes to participation in activities or drinking  ¨This is WILD Rover not MILD Rover!¨ Then I tell them they can claim their free skirts at reception when they check out. I torpedo them from the top floor with water balloons while they are sunbathing around the pool,  I wake them up in the morning and sign them up for things when I know they are hungover,  I wake them up with free shots during happy hour, I pour free shots on them while they are taking a shower....you can probably see why I am the most loved yet hated at the same time.  However they still do all these things because they know that I dont take no for an answer and that at some point in the night they will have no choice so they do what I say.

Like I said it is a lot of fun but extremely exhausting.  When I go to bed at night all I here are thousands of voices saying ¨Emmie!¨¨Emmie!¨ ¨Emmie!¨ I want to yell SHUT UP but know that wont do anything...I now understand why my mum used to tell me she was changing her name from Mommy to something else.  But, I love it, it has really changed my time here.   I am not wrapped up just with the staff in my own little world...I am having fun or more like making the fun with the guests who I have had the please of getting to know and it has been great.   It is a lot of work, and I only have one day off a week as I am a manager so on my days off I try and stay away from people as much as possible .... I love people but want my space and some solitude which usually ends up with me down at the bar drinking with them anyways.

Christmas is just a few days away and we have some big events planned....I can here them now ¨I hate you.¨ ¨You are the worst!¨ Oh, how much they love me.

                                                                                                - My Beautiful Life -

Questioning my Decision

I'm not gonna lie; coming back to Arequipa was wierd...a lot weirder then I expected.  Weird enough to make me question if coming back had been the right decision.

I figured I was ready to come back...it had been gone three months,  three incredible months of fresh air, fresh people and fresh thoughts. Me and a couple of guys even headed to Mancora for some beach time.

Leo was pretty funny.  I pretty much have everything you could need, considering my backpack is the size of a house. "Max,  Emmie is our mum, she has everything." So when we crossed the border and were filing out our forms all these backpackers needed pens - I have like 7 in my bag - so I handed them out. Leo's response "Get your own mum!"  Haha too cute.

I was like a kid at Christmas, I was so excited to be back at the beach.  I jumped in the pool first thing and then ran to the beach to play in the waves. It felt so good, the water the sunshine...perdect way to spend a morning.

I randomly met a guy who had just finished working at the hostel in Arequipa.  "You look familiar but we have met."  It took us acouple minutes to realize we hadmutual friends on Facebook.  Another friend from the hostel was working at a hostel a 10 mi ute walk up the beach so we all headed to see him.  That was the begining of the end for me.  The next thing I know its 4 am and we are taking a swim in the waves and then I wake up in a hammock at 6 am...the guys were still partying waiting to watch the sunrise.

The next day I was suppossed to head down to Mancora...but the furthest I could make it was to the hqmmock area where I spent my day curled up - in my brand new hammock.  I didnt see the guys till early evening.  I dont think I have ever had a hangover that bad, I literally couldnt function.  The next dayI booked a bus and headed off on a 40 hour bus trip down to Arequipa.

It was my first solo bus ride, Max and Leo were heading out the next dayand planned to meet up in Arequipa in a couple weeks. I was a little hesitant to go solo, I guess Im a bit paranoid after being robbed twice so I  spent the extra money and went with a high end bus company and I figured 40 hours Imight as wellbe comfortable.  Wifi, movies, two meals, full cama, leg room for days and a litrle woman beside me who gave me gum. PERFCT.  My first 20 hours were going to be great and I slept like a baby until the little woman kept tapping me to turn off her tv screen or talk to me in Spanish at full speed.

I arrivedin Lima 20hours later only to grab another 17 hour bus.  I was feeling horrible at this point, one crazy night and I end up with a throat infection and I had nothing for the pain, though I met two lovely bqckpackers whos mum had stocked her up on medication and sorted me out.

At this point Ijust wanted to get to Arequipa, even with all the luxuries it still is long and on my second bus the wifi didnt work and trustme 40 hours you want it, though I figured the next 17 I could watch the movies even thoughthey were the same as the previous bus.

I had a front row seat so I looked out the window a lot - the buses are two floors - which was great, but I swear at night when theyknow everyone is sleeping they speed up and cut corners a lot closer.  I woke up at one point and didnt see any road and then felt a sharp tur,, I knew we were high up and that we were driving close to cliffs.  I closed my eyes and begged myself to fall back asleep, its less painful if I sleep and we go over.

I got to the hostel at 730am, I was tired and my throat was so soar.

Like I said, it was weird to be back, in one second of being there it felt as though the past three months were a dream and that I had never left.  The volunteer staff was difderent but everything else was the same, the overtired play list in the bar still played, the clinking of the dice rings theough the walls of the bar and it smelled the same.  You know how your house has a smell - not a bad one of course - well so does the hostel and I noticed it as soon as I walked into the staff dorm - and I dont mean the stench that is gone - and thats when it all hit me.  Everything came pouring back, like a damn had been lifted,.  All the feelings that had drowned me before flooded my mind and my heart.  Oh no, Maybe I had come back too soon?   I thought I was ready, I was so excited, but maybe I had misjudged my how I was feeling and hadnt given myself enough time to come back to a place thay held so many memories. But I gave it a couple days and everything settled perfectly.

Its just as crazy as ever here, maybe crazier?  It could be that Im not used to working in a party hostel anymore...but its good.  Im running the events here which have been a blast and my outlook on things are different.  Working at the Secret Garden I worked really closely with the guests which has helped me ease my way back into things here.  Instead of getting myself wrapped up in a world only with the staff here I have really been merging myself with the guests which has been really important running the events.

I know coming back was the right decision, I am happy, I love being back behind the bar, Im with my Peruvian family and this is where I need to be right now,  plus...I got a teaching job which I am super stoked about!  Infact, I start today so I will leave you with that.

Wish me luck!

                                                                           - My Beautiful Life -

Beach Life...

Two weeks of surf, sand and sun.  It's been amazing!!!  I really really needed two weeks like this.  Sunshine really does make everything better.  After having a rough patch in Arequipa, leaving my life there and then getting robbed, two weeks in Mancora was exactly what the doctor ordered.

Sunshine and swimming in the sea every morning really make such a difference to your day.  Lesina and I get up every morning head down to the surf school, grab boards and head out into the waves.  Our first two days we had lessons.  I was nervous at first as I am not keen on open water, but after I got up on the board a few times without falling off, my confidence grew, even though I cut my hand on a rock I was still determined to stay out...besides, I was proud to say I had a surf injury.

We took lessons for two days and on the third day we decided to go out on our own.

Let me tell you, it's not all about getting up on your board, it's about paddling; and then paddling fast enough to catch a wave.   We were pooped after an hour, and we didn't even catch a wave but we definitely worked on our paddling.

Every morning we have been going out...it's a good way to kill a hangover and a great way to start the day.   We suck pretty bad though lol, we cant even catch a wave properly but we have been building our abs and arms with all the paddling we do.  We get frustrated and lie on our boards watching the other surfers who make it look so easy "we so suck"  Lesina said after we watched our mate Peter get every single wave.  "Your telling me."  

We have met some local surfers who are always willing to help, or help Lesina at least.  Next to her I am chop liver.  Im paddling into waves and there is some random pushing Lesina's board from behind to get her out further and then helping her into a wave and yelling "Ariba, ariba" when it is time for her to get up.   One morning, one of the instructors that we know - we have become friends with the local surfers - saw that I was struggling while giving our friend Sarah a lesson.  He yelled at his friend and pointed to me "he will come over to help you."  Perfect I thought as I was getting tired because it was a bit rough on the water that morning, help would be awesome.  Oh wait, yup wrong person....and over to Lesina he goes completely ignoring me struggling in the water.  This wasn't the first or last time this happened...the boys love Lesina, which is why we know the local surfers.  "Hi Emmie, donde esta Lesina?"  Gee I'm fine, thanks for asking, lol.  It was a bit of a rough day for me;  a swell was begining to come in so the waves were a bit bigger than usual.  Catching a wave wasn't my issue it was staying afloat on my board that was more of an issue.  Every time a wave came I held on to my board white knuckled hoping I wouldn't fall off.  I see another wave off in the distance and I began to paddle the same way as the rest of the surfers.  As it got closer it got bigger and bigger,  I was pretty much staring up at it by the time it got to me.   Fuck  I knew it was going to kick my ass, in fact, it actually said that as it looked down at me "Emmie, I am going to kick your ass."  I held on for dear life so I wouldn't fall off my board while going over the top of the way - though the proper way is to dive into it with your board but I couldn't move myself fast enough up on my board. At least say I can ride a wave upside down on my stomach.  I had enough after that...I wasnt having fun anymore and I couldnt see the girls on the water.

The next day the waves were full force and I could barely get in the water with my board without getting pushed over.  " Emmie!"  I hear from the shore.  One of my instructors was calling me back to shore.  "Jaime, I will pay you to come out with my,  Im not confident enough to go out in those waves by myself."   So out both Lesina and I go with Jaime.   The waves were huge and I was a bit scared.  Every time a wave came at us I screamed.   It was nice in between sets as I could breath and try to relax, but when they came it seemed like they never stopped we kept paddling over them as they brought schools of fish past us.  "Oh jesus" I heard Jaime say as a huge wave came towards us.  Great I thought, that sounds reassuring.  It was a big one and I screamed,  Lesina got caught in it and fell off her board,  before she could get back on another one came and pulled her under.  She started yelling for help and thankfully someone swam over to help her.   Five minutes later Jaime and I went back in.

We havent been back on a board since.  We wanted to take a day off...Lesina was shaken up a little bit and to be honest I was scared to get back in with the swell at full force.   Im not good with open water so I was freaked out. Plus I hurt my toe playing volleyball in the pool and then Peter stepped on it that night when we were working so surfing has been crossed off my list.

we went to see the turtles one day.  I was really excited to go as we knew we could swim with them.  However, it wasnt as great as I was expecting.  They were huge! Like really huge so when you were in the water it was scary, it didnt help that the water was dirty feom the boats and turtle poo so you couldnt see a thing.  All you had was the guidance from people on the dock telling you where they were which I tjink just made it worse because hearing "there is one behind you" or "there is one swimming towards you" just made everyone scream including the guys.  One guy even got bit....no joke....thank god I was out of the water before that happened.  The best part of the trip was the mototaxi.  Man when they speed up they vibrate....and when I say vibrate your whole entire body is vibrating everywhere....EVERYWHERE.  I couldnt even sit with my but down on the seat, i had to adjust but then that position sent my legs vibraring all the way up so thay didnt help as well.  My buddy had is legs up and was holdinghimself because the vibration was too much and my other friend was sitring silently biting her lip. I couldnt stop laughing...I was laughing so hard I was crying.  Imlooked at both of them with tears in my eyes and they started laughing too....well i hope it was laughter and not something else.

Most of our days are spent pool side, or playing volleyball in the pool, drinking slushies.  I have a daily nap in one of the amazing hammocks.  Ive been jet skiing with Peter which was an absolute blast.  We were pretty far out when the jet ski decided to go retarded on us and we couldnt accelerate and the waves were still pretty big.  We were both a little worried to get stuck out there and didnt want to turn it off incase it didnt turn back on.  We slowly made it back to shore.  Peter jumped off but I stayed on and me and the jet ski almost got thrown into a wall on the shore of the beach.   In the end we just had to restart it.   We flew across those waves so fast, we even caught some good air....what a great way to start my day.

Now however, my time and Loki has come to an end.  In fact, my time in Peru has come to an end.  Lesina, me and two of the guys we have met here are off to Ecuador tonight.  Im stoked, but a bit nervous.   I have been in Peru for 4 months and it is almost like leaving home, plus I am a little sad to be leaving Loki.   The past two weeks were an absolute blast and exactly what I needed.   Everyone here has been so great co-workers and guests.  It is such an easy hostel to meet people and the people I have met here have been absolutely amazing and am sad to say goodbye to all of them.  From the moment I wake up to the minute I go to bed, I can not complain about anything.  Every shift was a blast, every morning in the sea,  4 am swims in the sea, late nights in the sand pit,  beach parties, slushies, hammock sleeps, slip and slide, blood bombs, pirate parties,karaoke with Peter, "basically" meetings with Michael, Pierro is Lesina awake?....so much has happened in the past two weeks.

I am so going to miss morning chats.   All of us in our staff dorm have been like a family and every morning we wake up the top bunkers will curl up with the bottom bunkers and we rehash what happened the night before and then all head down for breakfast together.   I could not have asked for a better crew of people to work with the past two weeks.

It is time to say hasta luego Peru.  Muchos Grazias.  To everyone in my life the past 4 months thank you for everything but this feather is still on her gust and is floating to new boarders with some new feathers.   See you at Christmas.

Hello Ecuador!

                                                                                                  - My Beautiful Life -

 (for those of you reading this for the first time please go to my Ecuador blog)

A Highway Robbery and a Beachy Life

It was hard leaving Arequipa...I didnt want to...well I did but I didnt. First my students reason was my students.   They were the best I have had. On their exams one wrote at the bottom ...thank ou miss for teaching me...other ones kissing me after they wrote their exams telling me " it was a pleasure."   All of my students had over 80 % as their final marks.  I was so proud.  After my last day with them I started  queatinoneing if quitting was the right decision. I didnt want to leave them with someone that wouldnt be good.  Im not the greatet teachert but  I did so much with them in a month that I knew I had done the best that I could and it really showed in their acceptance of me and their final marks.   I held my tears back during their exams, I will  truly miss that class. I would've stayed for them.

Of course it was tough leaving Wild Rover as well.   I panicked a bit on my last day, it felt really weird and strange, I just wanted to get back behind the bar and start work.   Billy literally had to carry me out so I would leave.

Off to Hucachina!

Huacachina is a little oasis town surrounded by mountainous sand dunes.  We arrived at 7am in the sweltering sun.  We dropped our stuff off at the hostel and wandered around the lagoon looking at shops and restaurants for a little while.  I spent the day lounging around the pool while Billy slept and Jamie went to the sister hostel to watch the soccer game - I worked with Billy at the hostel and Jamie had been staying there for two weeks.

We ended up drinking ourselves silly that night - what else is new -  I did however get the street food and I believe I found a better burger then the chicken burgers I love so much ...I apologize to my Arequipa chicken ladies, I believe you have been beaten with taste.

The next day we went sandboarding and on a dunebuggy - the main reason to go to Huacachina.  What a crazy couple hours that was...I freaked on the dune buggy, they go fast up and down steep dunes and my vertigo nightmares were literally happening...at one point my whole body just started shaking that I couldnt move, it was so much fun though.  I wasnt impressed with the sandboarding though, they were boards you could stand up on but the boards were to big so I couldnt strap my feet in. "Do you have a smaller board, my feet dont feet"  "your shoes are too small, you need bigger ones"  Seriously!!!  Just like the guy who told me the bottled water was expensive because the lid was sealed. Sometimes I wonder...

I had sand everywhere, even in places you don't know that exist.  To top it off, when we got back to the hostel there was no water, not even cold.  The boys weren't fussed about taking a bar of soap in the pool and scrubbing down.  Not my idea of a bath and I have a bit of an infection on my knee so I had forgoe the clean feeling...I couldnt get a hot shower till the next day which was good because we were taking a five hour bus ride to Lima.

As per  usual Billy slept.  I was reading my kindle and Jamie was watching the dubbed spanish movie that was playing.  Two hours into our ride I went to put my ipod back in my bag.  It was empty. I     thought I had left it unzipped and everything fell out so I looked under my seat and I saw one of my cords on the floor a few seats back.  My bag was  empty...I had been robbed!!! Billy shot out of his seat, looked at the compartment above our seat, his whole bag was gone!!! Jamie did the same, his bag was there but they had managed to get his passport out of it!  It was a day bus!!! 

All i did was cry...everything was gone!!  Laptop, tablet, iphone, presecription glasses, electrical cords EVERYTHING!!!

We told the woman on the bus  what had happened and she said its not their responsibility!   Gee thanks!

We made a police report...they didnt care!!!  We are nobody but gringos here. The tourist police didnt even speak English...that was fun and to top it off  we  had to pay for it!!! 

The next day , Jamie went to get his passport at the British Embassy.   There were three guys there  that we knew from Wild Rover (Arequipa) ... they hade the same thing happen to them...same bus company..same time...same  stuff.  The cops don't care and the bus company obviously knows what goes on...ITS A SCAM.  PLEASE... ALL TRAVÑERS OR ANYTONE THAT KNOWS TRAVELERS DOING THE SAME ROUTE.  SHARE THIS BLOG.   THE COMPANY IS CALLED  SOUYUS   AND THEY NEED  TO BE STOPPED.  THE  COPS KNOW AND DONT DO ANYTHING...THE TOURIST COPS IN LIMA DONT EVEN SPEAK ENGLISH.   I DONT WANT THIS TO HAPPEN TO ANYONE ELSE...SHARE THIS WITH FRIENDS FAMILY FELLOW TRAVLERS.  GET THIS OUT!!! SHARE IT!  BLAST IT! LET PEOPLE KNOW, IF YOU HAVE A TRAVEL BLOG OR KNOW SOMEONE WHO DOES, PLEASE  INFORM THEM SO WE CAN HOPEFULLY  STOP IT FROM HAPPENING TO OTHERS!!!

This put a bit of a damper on our trip.   As much as it is all materialistic things, when you travel those   materialistic things are pretty much   the only things you have (plus clothing).  I was really mad at myself...how could I be so stupid,,,and just put my bag under my seat.  I went over and over it in my head but there was no point as it was all done and over with.

We made the best out of Lima.  Sophie (a friend who had worked with us at  Wild Rover) met up with us.   We did a city tour which was shit lol...but had fun wandering the streets and taking pictures. The weather was grim and overcast which made it a bit depressing but at least I can say I have been there.

Our next stop was Mancora, a beach town  20 hours (by bus)  north of Lima. Unfortunately Jaime didnt go with us...he couldnt get on our bus so he booked a bus to Arequipa instead.  Billy and I were a little gutted as it was such a quick decision, but us feathers always float in the direction our gusts take us and unfortunately Jaime's was going the other way.   We slept holding our bags in our arms that night...even though we had nothing left to steal...we were a  bit paranoid, but we arrived safe and sound the next morning and so did our stuff so we were happy.

After we checked into our rooms we headed to the beach. You barely have to leave the hostel to get to the beach.  You just walk down a flight of stairs at the back and there it is, beach, bars and surf schools.  "I could stay here"  I thought as we basked in the morning sun enjoying a beer...so I did.   The hostel was looking for bar staff and now here I am.  I was a little sad to part ways with Billy but being here is what I need right now.  I need the relaxation and sunshine for a little bit...and I have no regrets staying.

The hostel is like a resort.  It has a huge pool with a volleyball net, a good sized bar outside, hammocks, music, heaps of sun chairs, good food and it's on the beach.  I spend everyday outside either reading in a hammock, hanging out by the pool or getting involved in daily activities.  The staff here is absolutely amazing and I feel like part of the family already.  

A friend of mine who I met in Arequipa was working at this hostel chain in   Lima and is now working here which is great.  It is always nice to have someone around after parting ways with others as Sophie  headed up to Equador the day after Billy.  

I cant complain much about life right now...things are fantastic.  Yesterday we played on the slip and slide...it was like being a kid.  However being at a hostel our slip and slide where to huge strips of plastic that we hosed down and covered in soap.   We had to soap ourselves down as well so we could just glide across it.  "Perfect"  I said "it's shower day anyways !"

Well I must sign off now.  I have a surf lesson in 15 minutes...yup...I am surfing.  It's actually the main reason I stayed out here.  I have never surfed and really want to learn.  Lesina and I had our first lesson yesterday.   I was a little nervous as I am not crazy about the water and its quite rocky and shallow here.     

The instructors are with you the whole time, holding onto your board and telling you when to get up.  "Paddle, paddle, paddle!"  Man did  I paddle, as hard as I could, I'm surprised my arms didnt fall off.  "Get up"  ya right, Im going to fall flat on my face.  "Up, up."    Alright I thought...and I got up and I didnt fall.  Seven waves I caught and seven times I got up and didn't fall ..."I was made for this!"  I said to my instructor.  The more waves I caught the more I wanted to surf.  "There are no waves!"  I said Jaime (pronounced HiMe) my instructor.   "Relax its ok, they will come."  They came, and I surfed...what a great morning.  Lesina and I are going to go out every morning.   We have our second lesson today and then after that - because we work at the hostel - we dont have to pay to rent surf boards we can just grab one when ever we want.  The surf school is attached to the hostel.   We walk down the stairs to the beach and its right there.  Honestly,  I living in paradise right now.  What a life.

Off to surf.

                                                                                                         - My Beautiful Life -

  

Mi Familia de Rover's

 

 All good things must come to an end and Im afraid its that time for my Arequipa adventure.  Im sad for many reasons;  one being I was so excited to move here and am disappointed that the job didn’t turn out as I had hoped and second of course saying goodbye to the incredible friends I have made while living in this great White City.

Goodbyes are tough after you have settled for awhile, and to be honest getting back on the road is s bit of a scary thing.  It is weird to be on an unknown road after spending so much time in a place that you now consider home.  But, it is time for this feather to jump on that gust and be carried away,so with a saddened heart, a swollen cheek, bloody knee, a few extra kilos in my body, paint stained clothing and the echo of dice in my ears I would like to say thank you.

Thank you so much for the incredible memories of UV nights, toga parties, drag parties, bar dancing, drunk topless backpackers,   Circus, Déjà vu, extremely late nights at Peace and Love, BARRACHAS, the stench of the staff room, smurf nights, Teo always managing to get people naked especially my goodbye party, free shots, smart shots, brass monkeys, rock star status, late night strip shows at circus only to wake jp with business cards in hour pants, infections, street dogs, chicken sandwiches,Arturo’s picnic, sushi nights, civiche lunch’s, my favourite bar in the world, and a family.  I have never had so much love from a group of people, you opened up your hearts, your arms and lives and gave me everything for no reason at all.  There are no words to express my love for you guys.  You are truly my family and I miss you guys so much already, even those of you who have already floated away.

It’s weird to think I am not going to see you guys everyday.  Sandra for being there to greet me every morning. Teo with your swagger and the only Peruvian I know who speaks better English than the gringos, and somehow you have a creepy psycho way of knowing everything, I will miss your ass slaps however my ass needs a rest your hand has left an imprint, don’t find another dance partner while I’m gone.  Jen, the love of my life, so much has happened since you left, it seems like just yesterday that you left, hurry and come back to me please.  Loquito for your bad drunken spelling and always making sure I got home. Claire it was only a short time but I still

miss you, our straw dresses, missions and girls night I love you.  Will, I have worked in many bars over many years and you are by far one of the best managers I have had, you are so laid back and always let me get away with everything.  You have done so much for me and I will miss your smile and hour carefree attitude, you are like my brother and took me in when I crashed after the guys left, thank you for making me apart of your family.  Arturo, thanks for giving me a job and changing the schedule I will not forget your kind heart  when I was at a low point estas mi amor.   Monica estas mi pequena barrachas.  Carlo, dont cry I will be back mi ermano, te amo.  To the little women on the street corners that sell the chicken burgers, I never told you but I love you, your burgers make me happy and fill my tummy , whenever I need food you are there, except one time you were sold out, but you are forgiven, thank you for filing my tummy and giving me a few extra kilos that I am taking with me, I would love to take you but didn’t think it would be appropriate, I will miss you. Titi, you have the biggest heart I know, you are always there and doing things for people around you and never asking for anything in return, I promise to come back to you so don’t worry.  Claudia, what can I say here, estas mi ermana, I love you so much girl, you became one of my best friends after the guys left, you were always there when I needed a hug, a glass of wine or just a girl talk (about penis’ lol), follow me when you can.   Eric, you could always make me smile, just seeing you made my heart light up, thanks for being your crazy Irish self even if it means Phil and I carrying you home, I love you brother and will see you soon. Too my Germans who came when I really needed people like them in my life, thanks for the smiles the laughs, talks

with Tobi and Lea being my drinking partner, especially when it came to 18 rounds of dice.  Ceyhan, you have no idea how much everyone has missed you and can not wait for you to return.  I miss your crazy ways, your barefeet behind the bar, teachers nights, your clapping, “come on guys”, your hugs, our talks and well I really just miss you so hurry up and get back here.  Phil, I changed after you left, my focus and what I want to do and where I want to be all changed when you got in that cab.  Its not a bad thing, sometimes we need to be awakened mentally even if it hurts like crazy. You have inspired me more than you know and it has really helped me get back on my gust. Thank you for the moments and the memories.  And last but not least….Freddie, you are by far one of the most incredible people I have had the pleasure of meeting.  My love for you is strong and I am extremely gutted I had to say goodbye.  We were always close but we got even closer after Ceyhan and Phil left, it was almost like a safety thing, like we both felt safest when the other one was there.   You always put me first and would drop whatever it was you were doing when you saw I was in need of a friend.  I will miss our talks and late night conversations in the staff room. To being the only two people working, peace and love, after hour rum in the room, all the times we kicked you out for nap time and being the only person to (still) see my tears.  You are my brother, and I will miss you till the end, please go home and take your course, I don’t need to worry about you.  Please take care of you as Im not there anymore to wake you up for work or make sure you are home ok.  Just remember you are the last one standing.

Well with tears in my eyes and a wave of my hand I am on my way to begin a new adventure. This feather has finally found her gust and is ready to float along with two new feathers.

Ciao for now mi familia de rovers, te amo.

3 2 1 Wild Rover

Barrachas!!!

 

 

 

Volunteering in Chivay.

As most of you may know (for those of you that read/follow my blog), I have been going through a difficult and emotional time.  It has been a struggle of mixed emotions, an aching heart and a clouded mind and me swimming through the maze of confusion trying to find that one opening in the thick grey water that would lead me to sanity and some sort of focus.

Days of flooded eyes and emotional exhaustion seemed never ending, but I kept swimming, kicking my way to the surface, even when I felt like my lungs would fail me I didn’t stop.  I held onto that one opening with that small ray of sunlight; I kicked as hard as I could finally reaching the surface and taking in as much oxygen as my lungs would allow.

It rained… actually poured down on me.  Reality, dissolution, the what was, the what is, the what could be all came flooding down on me from the sky making it hard to see anything at all.  But just like after any hard rain it finally stopped, leaving a fresh smell of rebirth and a clear new vision as if all the toxins, dust and leftovers have been washed away with only the things that need to be left are left.

It wasn’t easy, the crashing, the swimming and then the downpour.  I was exhausted and I still am, not just emotionally but physically and mentally.  I have been working two jobs.  Over a month ago I moved out of the house as I couldn’t afford the rent so I moved back into the hostel where I have been bartending every night (it pays for rent, one meal a day and a discount) and then teaching during the days.  In 6 weeks between teaching, working at the bar and volunteering I have had two days off.  I don’t know I have done it without physically collapsing but I have, but the exhaustion has not helped when trying to find my wind.

However, volunteering has helped me.  It actually was the opening I found in the murky waters of my confusion. 

I had been looking forward to going since my first week teaching, but when the time actually came around to going I was hesitant.  Phil had just left and Ceyhan was leaving in a few days and I was emotionally unstable and had no energy to even talk to or even smile, but I knew people were depending on me to go and deep down I knew I needed some time away from the hostel hoping maybe it would clear my head.

The three hour bus ride there was what I needed.  For some reason, bus reds always clear my head.  Maybe it’s looking out the window at the landscape or not having an obligation to make conversation but by the time we got to Chivay I felt a little bit better.

Chivay is a small town just at the beginning of Colca Canyon.  It is situated in a valley of a dusty grey and brown patchwork-like landscape surrounded by sharp mountainous cliffs. There is really not much to it, it’s quite small.  There is a night market where you can get lomo Saltado – an amazingly yummy Peruvian dish – and emoliente, vegetables, fresh bread and other yummy stuff.  I bought emolliente, a mix of hot spices and tea, served in a plastic bag and a straw in it….soooo yummy and is perfect at keeping you warm at night as it gets so cold.  At night I slept in leggings, wool socks, long sleeve shirt, knitted cardigan, my toque and four blankets….yup Canada cold.

There is no heat at the school as there is only electricity certain hours of the day which doesn’t include the night time so layers are a must.  

The school is located five minutes outside of the city centre.  It’s its own community with a playground, volleyball area, green houses, mess hall, living quarters, class rooms, a fountain in the small plaza. It is all all safely kept by the gated entrance and back drop of jagged edge cliffs.

We first got to meet the children.  They were in awe and so excited to meet us. At the top of their lungs they started shouting “Hi!!! How are you?!?” then they broke into song that went something like Hello friend how are you? How are you?  I am fine thank you, I am fine thank you… it was great!!!! It was such a different atmosphere then teaching in Arequipa…it was exactly the type of environment I had pictured myself teaching in when I was getting certified…I was so excited for the next day.  But before teaching the kids we sat down with the Tia’s (aunt’s) that night and gave them an hour long English lesson as they speak no English.  We just taught them the basics, hello, how are you?  What is your name? My name is… where are you from? All to be followed with the phrase in Spanish so they would understand.  Hi how are you?  Hola como estas?  Good thank you and you?  Bien grazies e tu.  I’ll tell you…I learned basic Spanish quite fast that weekend as even with the kids the next day we would have to go from Spanish from English.

I would hold up a picture on my tablet – which they had never seen before, they were so amazed by it and were even more amazed when they discovered they could make a picture bigger and smaller with the touch of their fingers – lets say of a banana, I would then say “que es un platano en ingles?” Then we would tell them and they would repeat.  There were two of us teaching this class as it is the biggest class and they are a handful…15 of them all between the ages of nine and twelve…why we gave them candy is beyond me…it just increased their energy and drained ours in the process, but it was all worth it.

They were so eager to learn which made it exciting; and when we weren’t in the classroom they never wanted to leave our sides.  I had one little girl wrap herself around my front and refuse to let go, even for lunch.  The only way to get them off of you is to tell them you have to go to the bathroom, but even they will wait outside the living quarters for you to return.  It’s kind of like a zombie movie, except with kids.

I felt really good after the weekend, exhausted but good.  I was so happy that I had gone, I had really needed to get out of the hostel for a night and breathe and not be surrounded by memories that wouldn’t let me escape their strong hold.  My head felt a little clearer and I was hoping it would help me get my focus back.  

I went again two weeks ago.  This time I had toys for the kids from a backpacker at the hostel and I also had letters.  I had my class work on writing a letter for the kids at the school.  I thought they were just going to write letters but man did they surprise me.  The had coloured paper, stickers, they made envelopes, drew pictures, they really went all out…and what they wrote was just amazing.

We got an early bus so that way we could enjoy Chivay.   There was a celebration going on.  They were playing music and dancing in the street. One lady came and pulled us into the circle and we danced with them.  As we were dancing three crates of beer were brought out and us gringos kept dancing while the locals enjoyed the beer…what is wrong with this picture?  Just as my tastebuds started to crave some beer they started handing it out.   Basically you take sip and pass it on, or they fill up little cups and then when you are done they refill it or take the cup and pass it on.  We were having a great time.  We went and bought a few beers and shared with them to say thanks.   We talked with them in very broken Spanish for about an hour.  We learned that there was a bull fight so we headed to the arena.

The arena was built into the stone cliffs, it was like a mini Odeon…it was pretty cool…however the bullfight wasn’t great.  They kill the bulls, its horrible.  The audience even taunts it by throwing beer on it.  One matador was interesting to watch, he was graceful and danced with the bull, even getting close enough tout his hand on the horn of the bull.  Then he stabbed it with his sword, the secondary matadors come out and taunt it.  It was awful, they hurt it then play with it, I honestly could feel its pain and then with once quick move he stuck his sword in its neck and it dropped to the floor.  I was crying, it is such a horrible sport, killing it for entertainment, I felt like i had witnessed a murder. I would definitely not attend another one.

Teaching was great but exhausting as I didn’t have another teacher to help, but it was still worth it.  The kids were so happy to see us, they remembered us which was great.  They were all over us and kept saying “Tia. Enamorado de ti.”  Lol which means I am in love with you.   They are so full of love and happiness and just want to constantly be near you.  At one point I was surrounded…three were doing my hair, four were checking out my rings and bracelet and wanting to know where they were from, another one was checking out my eyes and telling the others they were green.  I felt like a movie star lol. 

I consider myself extremely lucky to have been able to volunteer there.  I would love to be able to continue but I have quit my job at the school.  I love teaching but was not happy there, there are some things there that Im not overly keen about so I made a tough decision and quit.   

Don’t worry…I have found my gust of wind…this little feather is off for a new adventure.

 

   

 

Oxygen

An Arequipa city map still sits on the bottom of the pool, though the left overs of peoples one night mistakes and unwanted decisions no longer float in the once murky waters of the pool which seem to be less polluted these days. Maybe its because I see the pool as a representation of my brain which is starting to clear and feel less murky, so I see the pool in the same way.

A small ray of sunshine has managed to find its way through the thick confusion of my crash landing into dirty waters of what was, and guided me to the top where I have finally come up for air, inhaling as much oxygen into my thoughts and lungs as possible.  I let it run through my veins pumping clarity and focus back into my blood stream and brain waves.  I have allowed myself to walk back into silence's open door of tranquility and solitude.

Solitude, sounds lonely, and I was scared to go back to it, to let go of the moments and the love of the leftovers that I was dropped into.  Even though I was  scraping the ground and bumping into random things I almost felt that doing that was better...because I felt if I accepted the truth it would all be lost, lost in the other forgotten memories and trinkets of others.  Letting go can be hard, especially when you are the one left to sort through the rubble and keep what needs to be kept.

When your havoc stops and you are dropped, confusion makes it difficult to make sense of anything leaving you questioning everything.  There is so much scattered around you that you don't know where to begin.  Sorting seems impossible, the thought of going through everything and trying to find your way through the maze feels never ending.  Giving up seems to be the easiest option, but the thought of continuing in a murky vision is unappealing enough to make you push through it to find that one little ray of light, that one little ray of hope to lead you to clean, fresh oxygen.

My brain is still a little cloudy...but I suppose after coming out of a dirty pool we will all come out with a little bit of a film of dust on us, and I'm ok with that. Its a film, not a burden of leftovers but a dusting of beautiful memories, the ones that I am meant to keep. 

The sobriety of focus and  tranquility is an incredible feeling...and the colors of my feather seem to have brightened up again and instead of scraping the bottom I have lifted off the ground trying out different gusts to see which one is going to take me where I need to go.

The overtired playlist still plays, but the sounds of dice and a countdown has subsided almost into silence.  It is sad because the life and vibe of our havoc is gone yet being able to breath is a relief so it can be confusing...but I know accepting  the silence and tranquility is reality, and reality and I get along.  I'm still a little sad as I deeply miss my feathers that have blown away, but now instead of endless water filled moments with my eyes, a smile escapes my lips when I remember.

Remembering is great but to live in extinct moments is not the way to live and I can't miss out on other havocs with other beautiful feathers out there.

So with a smile, I lightly dance on the wind ready to get on the gust that is meant for me because this feather is ready.

Stoy en control total de mi Vida.

And to my ray of light....my parents...thank you, you were there when I took my first breath and you gave me another when I needed it ...I am grateful x


                                                                                                                      - My Beautiful Life -

Murky Waters

An Arequipa city map, a napkin and a beer bottle cap sit on the bottom, while condoms and an unused match float in the murky stagnant water of the pool.   I stare at these left overs, left overs of peoples one night mistakes and loss of memory thinking that this is exactly how my brain feels.  Murky and unclean in a stagnant filth of remnants of everyone's good times, bad decisions and memories that may or may not want to be remembered.  I try to sort through the lost inhibitions and dignity for something familiar and solid but I can only find lost moments of what was. Moments that I try to cling too, moments that I want back, moments, I know, that will never be; and so I swim through the murkiness of the polluted water, running out of oxygen, trying to find an opening in everyone's left overs so I can come up for air.

I grasp at anything or anyone that might be able to give me a bit of oxygen, to fill my lungs with some life...but as I search and struggle I realize that everyone around me is swimming in the murky water as well.  I'm not the only one suffocating and searching for breath...my friends are trying to breathe as well...I don't seem to be the only one crashing...everyone around me is crashing.

I look around at the people I have come to love and see as my family, the people who open up their arms and their hearts to me when I'm down. I look at them and see that their magical havoc has stopped and they have crash landed in the dirty waters below.   Whether its, love, a secret, a childhood demon, being lost, not remembering the night before, seeing the demons come out of others or just life itself everyone is crashing.  The music has stopped, the constant laughter we once shared doesn't sail through the halls, the tight unit we had has shifted and changed, the whirlwind we shared has not just stopped for me it has stopped for everyone around me.

The only familiar sound is the clinking of the dice, the overtired playlist at the bar and the shouts of 321 Wild Rover, though even these things seem to have a different feel.  But they continue on as do I, playing my role and over indulging in the dice game and free shots that go down as easy as water these days...masking what I feel so I can get through the nights that no longer have what they once had.

The loneliness of traveling can seem unbearable at times, even though I am a solo traveler and am always surrounded by others that I meet along the way I can feel more alone then anything.  The once familiar quietness seems daunting that I hesitate to go towards its familiar sound of sobriety, focus and contentment; yet I can feel the warmth and the comfort of its security inviting me to come back...and I want to go back...I need to go back...its the only way I can find my gust of wind and keep floating instead of just lightly brushing along the surface hitting stray objects as I move in circles.

People keep saying "you should be used to this, its the life of a feather," and trust me I know, and its a beautiful life...I can't complain, even in down times I don't regret anything...but that doesn't mean it is always easier and that I won't fall into murky waters of leftovers and lost memories...sometimes we need to fall...its ok to lose sight of things and get swept up with others and ride the wind and swirl around,  to be swept up into a magical havoc, but it has to stop and you must fall...because even though it hurts it reminds us that we are human...that we feel, that we love that we bleed.  We need to be reminded of these things because when we are swirling in the havoc of the winds we feel invincible, that nothing can break us, and then  it stops and we fall amongst memories. Falling tests our strengths and abilities and let's us know what we are made of...and I know what I'm made of...I have grown so much in the past four years and know that even after crashing nothing can stop me.  Obstacles may slow me down, emotions may confuse me and my brain may get murky like the pool water or the smoke filled bar, I will fight my way through the waters, find that one ray of sunlight breaking through the almost non-existent visibility and follow it to the surface where oxygen and life will pump through me and lift me up onto my gust of wind to take me back on route of my destiny.  For I am a feather on the wind and I am meant to float and travel where my wind takes me.

                                                                                             - My Beautiful Life -